Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 26
A well-positioned and exposed route that finishes atop the needle. Start low down on the front face amongst the trees beneath a very short boot-wide layback crack.</br>1) 7m. Climb the crack to a ledge with some big trees on it and a low, large spike. This pitch is easily avoided by walking to the ledge from the right.</br>2) 20m. From the right-hand side of the low spike climb the slab to below the buttress proper and continue up a crack-system just left of the arete to a steeper final section that eases at a good spike hold. Swing right to a stance and tree belay.</br>3) 12m. Climb above the tree for 2m on good holds until horizontal moves left around the arete under a nose access a corner/groove. Climb this easily to the needle. Not in current guidebook.
We skipped the first pitch as it's just a rank looking mossy crack and slab and you can just walk to the top of it, making it feel a bit pointless.
I combined the first and second pitches (couldn't see any good reason not to!). A very pleasant climb, that was made better by doing the top pitch of Camel rather than the scrappy 3rd pitch.
The first pitch is well worth doing (and not a layback, at least not the way I did it). Almost led the whole lot in 1, but the semi-hanging belay by the tree was in too tempting a position to resist.