Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 28
The easiest way up the Dewerstone's most impressive wall is a fine series of pitches. The first pitch is serious and requires care. Start on the right of the face at the base of a small gully.</br>1) 4b, 24m. Climb up and traverse left to some dubious flakes. Move left, using them with great care, then climb up left to an overhanging corner. Move up this for 2m and then make a blind move rightwards, around a rib, into a parallel corner. Move up to a good stance.</br>2) 4b, 20m. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top and pull out right. Move up to a widening and traverse leftwards using a thin black crack to a good ledge-belay beneath a clean-cut corner.</br>3) 4b, 8m. Climb the magnificently-positioned corner to the top. Not in current guidebook.
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Classic rock that will not disappoint - Pitch 1 is intimidating from the floor, careful traversing that will take micro wires for confidence. Its hard to believe the infamous swing right out of the niche for the 'blind' jug is really 4b. Committing and at the point of no return for the short but very satisfying. The next two pitches are by contrast much simpler but no less enjoyable. Stop looking at it, get on it!
Due to rock fall the moves into the niche on the 1st pitch have changed. Haven't climbed it yet, but heard that it now seems more difficult than before.
Didn't rate this at all great effort for 1935 but a crappy route in my opinion and my partners. Pitch 1 Bold and the gear is over/behind loose flakes, then a rockfall has affected the move around the arete now around 5a. Pitch 2 is Mostly CC Direct then finishes up Central Groove. Don't Bother with this The Direct is Only slighty harder, safer and a far superior climb.
Climbed this again last night and thoroughly enjoyed it. The traverse of the first pitch is not well protected, but the moves are quite straightforward and, well, it is VS4b. The blind slot round the rib can be seen from the ground and, once you know it is there, 4b seems fair. A committing move nonetheless. You can do pitch 2 and 3 as one quite easily with double ropes. The traverse leftwards and final corner make this line a worthy alternative to the Direct finish.
A brilliant route, definitely 3 stars. No idea where the rockfall was but there's nothing harder than 4b on the whole route. The blind move round the corner on pitch 1 took me ages to work out (couldn't decide whether to go high or low) but once I committed it was easy, no more than 4a.