Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 19
Magnificent, and one for the jamming master. A forceful couple of pitches that have taken a few scalps (and skinned a few knuckles) over the years. One of the best HVSs in the area. Start beneath the hand-crack that cuts through the low overhang at the base of the face.</br>1) 5a, 23m. Climb the crack strenuously and continue past a sapling to a short, overhanging corner. Climb to an overhang and exit leftwards to a good stance above.</br>2) 4c, 27m. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top. Pull out right and climb the widening crack above direct to a wild finish. Not in current guidebook.
One of the best jamming pitches in the UK!
This was the first thing I saw on arrival and knew I had to climb it. Being rubbish at jamming I took a 30foot whipper near the top of the upper pitch, awesome!
You don't have to take the initial crack direct via an 'all or nothing' jamming approach. Technique, footwork & a little laybacking works wonders to get estabished in the crack and you need to jam. It's a good test of how technically proficient you really are at 5a.
Was strenuous, but careful footwork meant it wasn't quite as pumpy as it could have been (thankfully). The "wild finish" does seem a little tricky for 4c though!