| E1 5b|
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A fingery exercise on excellent rock that requires a determined approach. Start just left of the arete below an old ring peg at 5m.</br>1) 5b, 17m. Gain the peg and some good small wires just above. Traverse left with difficulty for 5m on small holds to an easing at a thin vertical crack. Climb the crack and move rightwards to a large belay ledge. A good and slightly easier alternative (Logic 5b) moves up right from the old ring peg onto the blunt arete and follows the arete to the large belay ledge.</br>2) 5a, 16m. Move up and stand on a block on the left, peg. Step right into an open groove and climb it past some poor rock and a very wobbly but keyed-in small block to finish on easier ground.
FA. Ian McMorrin, W.Reilly 2.65