Gabriel and the Pearly Gates Top 50

3 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Fingal's Cave < The White Knight  |  Solitaire > St. Peter >>


A fine combination of two old routes gives a near-classic.
1) 4c, 18m. Climb the open-book corner to a ledge (peg). Awkward moves lead up and right around a bulge.
2) 4c, 15m. Traverse left to the arete, high or low, and follow the exposed groove above. Take care to avoid rope-drag.
FA. (Gabriel) Jack Soper, Nev Crowther, Dave Johnson 1957
FA. (Pearly Gates) Dave Mellor, Dave Johnson 1959

USER COMMENTS

Only high in the grade and worth ** if Pearly Gates is done. Gabriel is middle of grade and only *.
Roger Whetton - 12/Jul/00

Heady!
Stu Tyrrell - 17/Jul/00

the finishing moves of Pearly Gates are hard. A VS leader will certainly find the route to be solid at the given grade.
martin kocsis - 25/Jul/00

On revisiting Pearly Gates it definately seemed HVS 5a.
roger whetton - 20/Sep/02

Pearly gates makes the grade, the combination gives the stars
cm - 25/Aug/03

Gabriel mild for the grade, more like 4b with great gear except for the very top.
Pearly gates a fantastic route, very exposed and solid Vs 4c for one or two moves.
climbersion - 12/Sep/05

How come nobody has mentioned that The Pearly Gates is on the verge of falling down? Enjoy it while you can though, good steep 'bum in space' exposure and big (if temporary) holds.
PatEase - 04/Jun/06

Just did the 'Gabriel' part. Nice moves, getting progressively more thoughtful the higher you get.
Sarah Clough - 08/Aug/06

Pearly Gates not a pleasant experience IMO. Great exposure for the grade but loose, shattered rock and rope drag made this a climb I was glad to get off.
Paul Willison - 08/Sep/07

good route. Gabriel usual stoney polish and a few nice moves. Pearly gates is a great route. Nice traverse to get you started and then some steep moves but with good holds. Not sure if the people who think it is falling down are slithy of route as if didn't seem loose to me.
msjhes2 - 15/Jul/08

Think I was off route on Pearly gates and it was very chossy and loose, with very poor gear. The 'bomber' nut (or so I thought) I got just before topping out, turned out on closer inspection to be behind a very large, but rather loose block. felt pretty stiff for the grade, but that's perhaps my fault for being off route!
Rob Cole - 04/Jun/09

Returning to Pearly Gates after a few years confirmed my impression that it was HVS!
roger whetton - 24/Apr/13

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 100
    hard HVS 0 of 35
    HVS 1 of 35
    easy HVS 2 of 35
    hard VS 18 of 35
    VS 14 of 35
    easy VS 0 of 35
    hard HS 0 of 35
    HS 0 of 35
    easy HS 0 of 35
    hard 5a 0 of 32
    5a 0 of 32
    easy 5a 4 of 32
    hard 4c 11 of 32
    4c 17 of 32
    easy 4c 0 of 32
    hard 4b 0 of 32
    4b 0 of 32
    easy 4b 0 of 32
    3 Stars 4 of 33
    2 Stars 26 of 33
    1 Star 0 of 33
    0 Stars 1 of 33
    Bag of ..... 2 of 33

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