Black Wall Top 50

2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Picking Blackheads < While the Cat's Away  |  Black Bastard > Black Wall Direct >>

40m. A great pitch that weaves its way up the centre of the Black Wall. The climbing is sustained, route-finding intricate and the route is high in the grade. A good rack and double ropes are essential. Start on the highest point of the earth mound then step left onto a narrow ledge and make a steep move to get established on the wall. Climb up until a horizontal traverse right, with feet level with a low peg (on Black Bastard) can be made, to beneath a line of pockets. Cimb these, past an old thread, to a break. Continue direct up the thin wall to a more broken band of rock. Traverse left to a corner and climb this to its top. Move up the next short wall before hand-traversing right to the finishing ledge.
FA. Gordon Caine, E.Austrums 4.10.70. FA. (Start) Doug Kerr, S.Grove 25.7.87


A good outing! Some loose rock and sandy breaks in places, but the rock is good where it counts. Loads of gear - take plenty, although I wouldn't want to fall on the thread. Not particuarly high in the grade, just some thought about route finding and ropework required.

Fantastic views from the top.
Thurg - 15/Oct/05

Didn't think there was much difference between this & Black Bastard, (apart from the loose traverse), & probably worth E2 for seriousness.
jim jones - 17/Sep/06

Seconded this. A very big route with plenty of interest and quite a few cruxes packed into the right hand crack.
Fiend - 03/Sep/07

New resin bolt belay added to the top of the wall.
Themeninblack - 06/Jan/08

A good trip out but not brilliant - the rock round here just isn't that nice to climb on.
andy m - 04/Sep/12

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 29
    hard E2 0 of 10
    E2 0 of 10
    easy E2 2 of 10
    hard E1 7 of 10
    E1 1 of 10
    easy E1 0 of 10
    hard HVS 0 of 10
    HVS 0 of 10
    easy HVS 0 of 10
    hard 5c 0 of 9
    5c 0 of 9
    easy 5c 0 of 9
    hard 5b 1 of 9
    5b 8 of 9
    easy 5b 0 of 9
    hard 5a 0 of 9
    5a 0 of 9
    easy 5a 0 of 9
    3 Stars 1 of 10
    2 Stars 8 of 10
    1 Star 1 of 10
    0 Stars 0 of 10
    Bag of ..... 0 of 10

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.