Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 29
40m. A great pitch that weaves its way up the centre of the Black Wall. The climbing is sustained, route-finding intricate and the route is high in the grade. A good rack and double ropes are essential. Start on the highest point of the earth mound then step left onto a narrow ledge and make a steep move to get established on the wall. Climb up until a horizontal traverse right, with feet level with a low peg (on Black Bastard) can be made, to beneath a line of pockets. Cimb these, past an old thread, to a break. Continue direct up the thin wall to a more broken band of rock. Traverse left to a corner and climb this to its top. Move up the next short wall before hand-traversing right to the finishing ledge.
A good outing! Some loose rock and sandy breaks in places, but the rock is good where it counts. Loads of gear - take plenty, although I wouldn't want to fall on the thread. Not particuarly high in the grade, just some thought about route finding and ropework required.
Didn't think there was much difference between this & Black Bastard, (apart from the loose traverse), & probably worth E2 for seriousness.
Seconded this. A very big route with plenty of interest and quite a few cruxes packed into the right hand crack.
New resin bolt belay added to the top of the wall.
A good trip out but not brilliant - the rock round here just isn't that nice to climb on.