Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 29
A great pitch that weaves its way up the centre of the face. The climbing is sustained, route finding intricate, and the route is high in the grade. Start on the highest point of the earth mound then step left onto a narrow ledge and make a steep move to get established on the wall. Climb up until a horizontal traverse right, with feet level with a low peg (on Black Bastard) can be made, to beneath a line of pockets. Climb these, past an old thread, to a break. Continue direct up the thin wall to a more broken band of rock. Traverse left to a corner and climb this to its top. Move up the next short wall before hand traversing right to the finishing ledge.
A good outing! Some loose rock and sandy breaks in places, but the rock is good where it counts. Loads of gear - take plenty, although I wouldn't want to fall on the thread. Not particuarly high in the grade, just some thought about route finding and ropework required.
Didn't think there was much difference between this & Black Bastard, (apart from the loose traverse), & probably worth E2 for seriousness.
Seconded this. A very big route with plenty of interest and quite a few cruxes packed into the right hand crack.
New resin bolt belay added to the top of the wall.
A good trip out but not brilliant - the rock round here just isn't that nice to climb on.