Flax of Dream

2 Stars
 E2 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Ice Breaker < Razorbill  |  Heart of Darkness > Heart of Darkness/New Morning >>


A good route with some exposed climbing. Start by abseiling to the base of Diedre Sud.</br>1) 4b, 20m. Traverse right, as for Razorbill, to the ledge below the big corner and belay.</br>2) 5a, 35m. Climb the corner to the roof (possible belay). Traverse left under the roof then pull around and mantleshelf onto a ledge. Step back right to reach the base of a crack and climb this to the top.
FA. Jim Perrin 1.8.81

USER COMMENTS

This ia a great little line but a bit unbalanced. Its easy peasy up to the 'would be' mantle-shelf but then theres that comitting unprotected trav right and then a long steep wall that just keeps coming at you all the way to the top ! I can see why it gets 5a but it feels more like 5b by the time you'v hauled your ass up to the top ! for what its worth, I found the solo traverse along the crinkley break to the start of the route the most challenging part of the climb ! one could, perhaps, tie the top part of the climb in with an approach from heart of darkness and take a belay mid-way, specially if theres a big sea running ! PS: anyone climbed 'ships that crash' ?
david369 - 13/Oct/09

lovely climbing in lower half up to mantle. From there I went directly right along the break to the crack which is protected but strenuous. The crack i found more like hard 5b at least for a few moves- rope drag not helping! More knackering than most Pembs E3s that I've done, but a great route all the same.
cockers - 30/Jun/12

I assumed 5a was a misprint. Gets 5c in the CC guide, felt like a normal Pembroke E2 5c to me, tough move to get started on the crack.
Jon Stewart - 06/Jul/14

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 8
    hard E3 0 of 3
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    easy E3 0 of 3
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    hard 5b 1 of 3
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    hard 5a 0 of 3
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    easy 5a 0 of 3
    hard 4c 0 of 3
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    3 Stars 0 of 2
    2 Stars 2 of 2
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