Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 26
30m. A fine companion to First Blood but quite a bit harder with a beefy start thrown in. Start beneath a small projecting rock tongue below the horizontal break band. Climb up to the tongue then psyche up and pull leftwards, eventually arriving on a small ledge above the bulge. Climb up some cracks above, over a bulge, into an open groove. Follow this to a ledge then finish up the corner above.
Think carefully before doing this route. I reckon that if the protruding block at the bottom snaps off when you pull on it you'd be killed or seriously hurt. It seemed fairly solid when I did it, but I won't be going back.
The block seemed pretty solid, plus you get in more gear just above it. Really good route, but the description seems to suggest it's about the same standard as 1st blood once you've done the start. it's not, pretty sustained until the groove we thought. Nearly 3 stars.
The block is pretty solid. Very good runners in the slots above. The route is definately not over once you have pulled over the initial steep section!
I agree that the current Rockfax introduction to this route creates a false impression of much easier climbing after the start. True, the start is powerful, but then the climbing remains sustained for some time with the line not totally obvious and the gear ok rather than great. Somewhat battered by the time I arrived at the (loose) top!
The block is fine, and the climbing is a step or two up from First Blood, but eminently protectable. Great climbing!
protruding block might look suspect but felt fine to me. crux for me was moving off the block - the slots aren't all as good as they look from sea level. the rest of the route was just lovely steady technical climbing, which comes in bursts, followed by good rests and gear.