Tangerine Dream Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 43
Adjacent Routes
38m. The first half of this route gives some of the best steep crack climbing around. Higher up the crack is much wider and easier to climb. Climb the twin thin cracks in the lower wall, with increasing difficulty and some haste - don't place too much gear - until a last difficult pull up and left gains a rest. Climb the wide crack above moving left at the top. USER COMMENTS
Easy to blow it by placing too much gear in the bottom half (I did!) and pumping out before you hit the crux...
I did actually carry some big gear for the top, only to find them not as useful as I'd hoped and not really needed - there are quite a few big/medium wires and medium cam placements.
Yes. No big gear needed. A fantastic pumpy route. The route keeps you interested after the hard lower section.
One of the best pitches anywhere, absolutely fantastic, and definately no big gear needed.
awesome climbing - the top wall while easier is still completely absorbing (and a much needed contrast to the lower wall). the lower cracks give tremendous moves with great gear but not much in the way of rest: aggressive approach recommended.
Aptly titled, a dream of a route. Very safe & therefore a good choice for pushing the boat out - just make sure your stamina training is in order!
I'd say not very safe. A decent looking rock 2 pulled through its placement when I fell off the crux (soft rock?) and I ended up suspended below my belayer. |