Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 39
One of the best routes here - steep, sustained (and polished).</br>1) 5c, 25m. Climb a slanting groove in the arete to a ledge. Make tricky moves into the main groove - a side-runner on the right may be found useful at the grade, more like stiff E2 otherwise. Head up the groove by superb finger-jamming and bridging to bulges; just above is a stance below an open gully. Abseil off or:</br>There are 2 alternative starts to pitch 1:</br>1a) 5b. Come in from the crack right of the arete.</br>1b) 6a. The fierce thin crack on the left.</br>2) 4c, 10m. Trend left to enter the gully and climb this.
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Hmmmm. An E1 5b with a "1) 5c, 28m. Climb the slanting groove" first pitch?? I think 5c is fair but it's not too bad. I seem to remember fingery and pretty good.
Grade now corrected. Ignore one 6a vote for tech grade.
Without the second of the old pegs (lost long ago) the 'difficult moves up into the main groove' are very poorly protected. A sly runner in Lone Tree Edge provides some comfort - without this I don't think that the route is E1.
I've done the route quite a few times, most recently in 2002. I have to admit when leading I've always used the good side runner in Lone Tree Edge. This I think actually forces you to miss the 5c crux move (which I remember doing once when seconding). So I would say E1 5b with the siderunner (probably E2 5c without but I'm not really qualified to comment).
The start is a little bold (a good rock1) but not hugely dangerous, after that it felt like hvs, and all too short because the groove is superb. A great route but low end E1 in my humble opinion.
There is now a peg just below the groove which does help somewhat though you do have to negotiate the crux (sensibly protected by the usual side runner) before you can clip it. Perhaps the second best E1 in the Peak? (George being the best)
Pretty easy for 5c. I've led this route at least 3 times but never with a siderunner. This makes for quite bold climbing up to the groove but I don't think it's E2
I have to say you are all braver than me. I've lead a lot of E1's (and up to E5) and I found the start to this route desperate at E1 and quite a shock as wasn't expecting it. I lead it a second time recently and still found it hard. I used a number of RP's to protect before getting to the peg. Everything is sloping the wrong way so it feels precarious and badly protected and even if you do use the side runners you'll swing around the corner quite horribly. The upper section is brilliant and great sustained corner crack climbing but for me this wasn't "easy E1" it was "desperate E1" verging on E2.