Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 19
The other great classic of the cliff is easier for the supple and/or long legged.</br>1) 5a, 16m. Climb cracks that split the left-hand face (looking out) and move right to a small stance.</br>2) 5a, 20m. Climb up until it is possible to straddle the groove (exposed) then continue to a niche on the left - possible stance. Finish up the chimney and right-trending grassy ramp above.
It should be pointed out in the guide that there are no belays on top of the cliff, just a grassy knoll. Walk backwards over the hill to belay - bit dodge!
The top chimney is now very vegetated and in need of a good clean. Belays can be had from two small trees at the cliff-edge on the other side of the hill (about 30m back - needs 60m ropes or second untieing from one rope).
Extreme caution needed, the crucial flake hold and runner placement that allows entry into the chimney base is nearly detached and must be considered unusable to protect the goups watching below! The smaller lay aways just below can be used instead but I would now consider it to be a 5b move.It is possible to get a solid belay at the top on the left with a large sling or rope & a No.4 Friend. Alternitely belay at he top of the groove at the large natural thread, this only leaves 2-3m to the top. No problem with standard 50ms ropes either way.The Top section is grassy and rather worrying in rock boots. Please don't let this put you off, well worth doing, a real adventure.
Should have read these comments before setting off yesterday! In the end we climbed direct from the belay via an in-situ thread and some dodgy flakes, with minimal contact on the left wall. Felt more like E1. My second ended up dangling after a hold broke off in his hand ...
Good route led in one 30m pitch. Felt bog standard E1 5b to us, the bridging being slightly polished and to insecure for HVS 5a. Very good climbing, a bit grassy at the top but there is gear and it's about VS max there.