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E5. Maori for 'cloud piercer'. Take a full rack.
1) 5+, 20m. Climb the slab to the pinnacle.
2) 5+, 25m. Up the pinnacle then the groove and crack above.
3) 6c+, 45m. The groove (bolts) then on past a flake to a ledge, cross the slabs to the wall behind.
4) 5, 20m. Climb the wall past a sloping ledge. Up left to belay.
5) 6a, 30m. Climb left over a small roof. Cracks and corners lead to a large ledge.
6) 3, 25m. Scramble across broken rock to below a long crack.
7) 5, 20m. A broken wall leads to a ledge.
8) 6b, 45m. Follow the crack then the wall on the left. Move back to the crack and up to a cave.
9) 6a+, 45m. Exit the cave up a chimney; cracks lead to the top.
FA. R.Edwards, S.PÃ©rez 1994
crux pitch is good and hard (more like 7a but not e5 as it's bolted until it eases) but the rest of this roite is a bit pants really. so much so that we bailed from the big ledge as we were fed up with the poor rock and the remainder looked even worse.
ianb - 15/Apr/12
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