Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 12
22m. A popular test-piece, usually the best chalked-up of the cracks. Difficulties escalate as the cave approaches with a hard final move (always easier after a quick sit on the gear). The sandy roof above the cave gives a gripping struggle passing a fat old peg (6a). The bottom section is often done on its own, hard but safe, choose a grade then abseil off.
Note: the peg on the first pich no longer has any cord to clip - making it impossible to clip unless you thread a wire through it - the first half is worth E4 in its own right in its current state.
i did this as the E3 6a version: my first Millstone 6a effort and it felt difficult (ie a bigger gap between 5c and 6a than i had expected). i found the moves to reach the upper part of the crack sequence dependent and reachy without much for your feet (maybe i just dont use my feet well enough?). great gear throughout and impossible to clip the peg but you dont really need it (having it pre-threaded would though make things feel more relaxed). good moves and a great finish.
The tat was back in last night.
Why does this route get the pumpy symbol? It isn't in the slightest.
I wonder if the votes for grading relate just to the bottom bit. The lead crux is definitely the roof which is quite worrying with sandy boots and that old peg backed up by not the best of cams. ITs a whilst since I did it but I would rate it similar in overall difficulty as London Wall and Pool Wall which both get E5.